How-to: Fix a Nintendo DS Lite that won’t turn on
A while ago I dropped my DS Lite on the floor. It wasn’t a particularly long fall, but it landed completely flat, and it really didn’t sound good when it fell. Much to my dismay, after this incident it did not start again. Sliding the power switch did absolutely nothing. Trying to charge it there was no light at all, and it did not turn on with the charger plugged in. So I figured that I might as well open it up and take a look to see if perhaps it was something simple. I’m sure there are a number of things that can break when you drop your DS, so I can’t guarantee that this will work for you, but I did find this thread about a person having a similar issue.
Open it up
For opening the DS Lite, please go to this great thread over at GBAtemp. I followed the intructions and it was pretty easy. Just don’t make the same mistake I did and forget to take the Slot 2 card out of the DS before unscrewing the back, and remember you’ll need both a small phillips head and trigram screwdriver.
As soon as I took the backplate off, I noticed a little piece falling out – meet the resistor fuse!
This is a small surface-mounted component that had fallen off the PCB, and armed with that knowledge I started looking around trying to find where it once was. The hi-res photos of the DS Lite PCB over at the GBAtemp thread were of great help. After some time, I located the place of the component.
Since the component was very small (about 0.2-0.3cm in length) I was unsure if I would be able to solder it back onto the PCB directly, so I opted for the more cumbersom, but safer approach – soldering it to two pieces of wire and then soldering the wires to the PCB. Here’s how it turned out:
At this point I tried to turn the DS on by pressing the battery against the battery connectors on the back. If it turns back on, like mine did – congratulations, your joints are working and you’ve got the DS back to life!
Tidying it up
Using electrical tape, I affixed the component to the PCB to make sure it doesn’t wiggle around.
I actually had to go back after this picture and remove some tape because it was just so much that I could barely fit the backplate on. I also attached a tiny piece of tape between the connectors on the PCB, since I didn’t want them to short out if the cable twisted in some weird way.
Quite a fun project. This did take probably 4-5 hours with internet research, diagnosing and soldering, but it was very rewarding. Let me know if you’ve had this problem and the fix worked for you!
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